Interview with a Sake Samurai!

The appreciation and consumption of sake has been steadily increasing in North America and shows no signs of slowing down. The beverage that was once a novelty at sushi restaurants–and chance to debate whether to serve hot or cold–is now taking it’s rightful place in glasses of those with discerning palates, seeking premium sips. For the curious consumer, sake offers a whole world to explore, with centuries of heritage, a myriad of styles, exciting food pairings, evolving production techniques, and a slice of Japanese culture.

Enter Michael Tremblay, who has been bestowed the rare title of Sake Samurai. Michael is the Beverage Director at Ki Modern Japanese + Bar which boasts the largest sake program in Canada, and he is also recognized for promoting the virtues of sake across Canada and beyond. We got to have a little dialogue with Michael to hear about his journey and his thoughts on sake.

What is a Sake Samurai? Do you get a sword?? 
Haha! No, I didn’t receive a sword although I get asked that a lot.  A Sake Samurai is a title bestowed to an individual who has been recognized for their work in promoting sake and Japanese culture.  It’s a massive honour and only about five people from around the world receive it annually.  I was invited to Kyoto for the induction ceremony at Matsuo Taisha, a 1300-year old shrine to sake.  At the time, there were only about 72 Sake Samurai.  Now there are about 100.  Besides the really cool title (who doesn’t want to be called a samurai?) it’s very humbling and a huge honour and I try to work hard to promote sake whenever and wherever I can…something I would do irrespective of the title.

What is it about Sake itself that inspired you to become an expert? 
When I was introduced to sake I had just completed some wine studies and was looking for something new to learn about.  I accepted a position at ki modern Japanese + bar in Toronto’s Financial District which had a significantly large sake program at the time.  I found that most of our guests were more open and keen to learn about sake than wine, and so I started reading about the breweries and the regions they are from.  Japan  has such a unique history and culture, and the breweries and the regions they are based in all tell a segment of that story.  I fell in love with this. Telling these stories.   Moreover, and it should go without saying, I instantly loved the flavour profile of sake and how well it paired with food!

What are some misconceptions that we, in North America, have about sake?  
The first is that some consumers still think that sake is distilled.  It is not a spirit.  It’s a rice-brewed alcoholic beverage.   The second misconception is that the alcohol in sake is really high.  Sake’s alcoholic range is 13-17%. 

How do you feel about sake produced outside of Japan, specifically sake made in Canada? 
I think it’s great, and I am proud that we have a fantastic brewery in Toronto (Izumi) that can help to champion sake to consumers that want local drinks.  The sake making scene outside of Japan has exploded in recent years and this is a testament to the popularity of Japanese cuisine and sake.  Sake that is produced outside of Japan allows for more exposure and new sake enthusiasts, which is great for Japanese sake in the end.  

What are some of the best places in Canada to experience sake? 
Come to ki Modern Japanese + bar where I work! And, there are so many great places out there well worth seeking out!  Out west, Vancouver’s Yuwa Japanese is helmed by Sake Expert Iori Kataoka.  Sakai Bar in Toronto, helmed by Stuart Sakai is fantastic with a great sake program.  If you like unique pairings, Sake Director Amy Lee does wonderful pairings for their elegant Kaiseki menu; and Montreal’s Fleurs et Cadeaux has some interesting sake options.  

With many different types of sake, it can be a little overwhelming for a beginner. For somebody with a curious palate, what type of sake would you recommend as an introduction to the world. From there, where would you like to see them explore? 
I truly believe there is a sake for everyone and I agree that it can be overwhelming if you are new to sake.  There is sparkling sake, cloudy sake, dessert-like sweet sake, Sherry-like aged sake and a myriad of other styles out there.  To make matters more challenging, there are many Japanese words that indicate what you might find in the bottle that can be daunting.  The majority of the sake that comes into Canada is either fruity / floral sakes (ie. look for the words ‘Ginjo’ or ‘Daiginjo’) that are wine-like, light and elegant; or savoury types (ie. Junmai) where there is umami, acidity and body.  I think trying both and seeing where you gravitate is a good start.  Then, you can start exploring the many styles of sakes made in each grade, their provenance etc.  Alternatively, coming to ki or a sake bar that offers sake flights is a great way to try a few different styles side by side and explore what you like or don’t like.  Or, have a sake party!  Invite some friend over for a Japanese-themed night and buy a few sakes in different styles to try together.  

For a beverage with such a deep history and tradition, how has the sake industry evolved in modern times? 
The industry is in a period of really interesting experimentation at the moment.  Brewers are playing around with barrel aging; the acidity in sake is higher than was acceptable a decade ago; the calibre of sparkling sake that is being crafted now is high; geographical indications (like the French AOC system) have rapidly expanded to 18 (there were only two in 2016); old methods and fermentation vessels are coming back in vogue.  In short, brewers aren’t afraid to try new things while still keeping a foot in tradition so it’s creating a lot of diversity.