Bye Bye Bourbon, Hi Rye!

The US administration can’t seem to make up it’s mind on tariffs, but one thing is for sure: the future is uncertain. While we wait for our friend and neighbour to stop squawking and running in circles, it’s time for us to recognize, embrace, and leverage the goodness we have within Canada. Let’s start with whisky!

We have a lot of bourbon aficionados here in Canada and this trade war is going to bum them out. But we don’t need bourbon. Sure, bourbon is fantastic. It’s a generally well-made whisky, the category carries a hype that’s fun to get caught up in, it’s an industry steeped in tradition and history. But, in fact, Canadians have a deeper history of making whisky than the Americans do. Canadian whisky has been hugely successful in the worldwide marketplace for over a century, even being the number one type of whisky sold within the USA until as recently as 2010. Unfortunately, success bred mediocrity as conglomerate brands put quantity over quality and Canadian whisky’s reputation took a hit. As the century turned over and people began to realize that mass produced products suck, bourbon was primed to have its moment. In the same way that people would give up MacDonalds for hand-crafted smash burgers, whisky drinkers delighted in immersing themselves in craft spirits with cool labels and fun attitudes. That good ol’ Crown Royal just didn’t cut it anymore.

Thankfully, there were already small-scale Canadian distillers who were already honing their craft and developing their own approach to Canadian whisky. Over the past two decades some fantastic Canadian whisky has emerged which absolutely holds its own against bourbon.  

But we have an inferiority complex here in Canada. We fetishize products from the US as being superior. We have that bigger, louder, older brother who acts like they know everything, and we go right along with them. The hype that has accompanied the bourbon boom is as intoxicating as the spirit itself. I have often shared sips with friends without telling them that they are drinking Canadian whisky, because most people are so programmed to automatically dislike it as soon as they hear it’s homegrown. I’ve even had people thoroughly enjoying a dram and then, when I tell them it’s Canadian, they start to pick it apart and suddenly find faults. WTF, trust your own palate and trust your own nation!

But I think that’s where we are at now. We are ready to recognize our own greatness in the face of the behemoth. So, say bye bye bourbon and let’s get into the good stuff we distill right here.

Before we do, I want to say a few things about rye, as some of the recommendations I will share below are rye focused. When delving into Canadian whiskies, there are a couple reasons to go the rye route. A) it’s Canadian AF. Until recently, the word “rye” has been synonymous with Canadian whisky, regardless of whether rye was used to make it. Many in the current wave of craft distillers in Canada have embraced the hardy northern crop and the results are delightful. B) It’s delicious! But there is a caveat if you are a bourbon disciple! In bourbon, the predominant grain is always corn which, in general, has a sweeter profile than other whisky variations.  At heart, we are all kids who like our candy, which is no doubt why bourbon has found such favour with the general population. To appreciate rye, you must put on your adult britches. It has a hearty and spicy character that can put some bourbon drinkers off.

So, while I think you should go full Canuck and drink rye, if you are looking for that bourbon sweetness you may disappointed. The beautiful thing is, with Canadian whisky, there is a wide range of styles to be had. To be bourbon, a whisky must be produced within a restrictive set of guidelines resulting in a flavour profile that is distinctly bourbon; there is variation, but even a novice palate will be able to distinguish that you are drinking bourbon over other whisky. In Canada, distillers have much more freedom in the way they make their whisky, so we have innovation, experimentation and a broad spectrum of flavour profiles, ranging from bourbon-esque, to Scotch-ish, to down home spicy rye. So, if you haven’t found a Canadian whisky you like, keep tasting.

Here’s some of the Canadian whisky I think is worthy of your attention, but this is only the tip of a very large iceberg. With big brands putting effort into limited releases and craft distillers building momentum, there are so many home-grown options to ease your bourbon blues.

CIRKA

Cirka has several intriguing whiskies in their lineup, but for those of you looking for a 1:1 trade for bourbon, Whisky No. 2 is what you want. Made from 100% Quebec corn harvested within a 100km radius of the distillery, it’s approachable and satisfying, with that bourbony hint of sweetness. Available at SAQ and directly from Cirka’s website.

Lot No. 40

It’s just good. Nothing too complex, just tasty, comforting, and reliable. This is a very approachable 100% rye, both in price and profile. Nice to sip and makes a fantastic Old Fashioned. I always have a bottle of Lot No. 40 in the cupboard. Also, check out the much-loved Dark Oak version of Lot 40. Available at most liquor stores and directly from their website.

Forty Creek

Forty Creek was at the forefront of the new wave of Canadian craft whiskies. Their Barrel Select is a cheap and cheerful standard that is generally well-received by whisky enthusiasts. But connoisseurs will want to explore the limited releases like Maplewood Select, and Confederation Oak. Available at most liquor stores and directly from their website.

Shelter Point

Flavour-wise, Shelter Point’s single malt whiskies lean more towards a Scotch, but they must be mentioned as they are producing phenomenal spirits that are being lauded worldwide. Many of the whiskies in Shelter Point’s lineup are made to showcase the unique characteristics of Vancouver Island, like Smoke Point, which is aged in barrels smoked with driftwood from the surrounding beaches, or Montfort, made from 100% barley growing in the fields that surround the distillery. Order directly from their website.

Alberta Premium Cask Strength

Alberta Premium is a massive brand with a dependable, well-regarded bottom shelf rye. But they have jumped into the craft game and put their expertise into limited edition Cask Strength Rye, and wow it is good. But at ABVs around 65% this is not for the faint-hearted. It’s an uninhibited rye experience for true connoisseurs.

Crown Royal Northern Harvest

Yes, Crown Royal is another behemoth brand with a flagship product that is considered by most aficionados to be supremely mediocre. But they have a deep bench and decades of experience, and their Northern Harvest is proof that they are still in touch with how to craft a fine spirit. Northern Harvest famously caused a ruckus when Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible named it “World Whisky of the Year” in 2016. Was it the best whisky in the world at the time? I find it a little mild-mannered compared to others on this list, but it is lovely and 100% worth checking out, especially at the price point.

Tell us your favourite Canadian whisky!